On the 29th we disembarked the Norwegian Jewel
and made our way back through Seattle to our hotel south of town where our car
was parked. We did some laundry and a bit of trip planning for the next leg of
the adventure and then jumped in the car and headed north. We found a
campground near Anacortes called Washington Park and got one of the last
campsites. After setting up camp, we took the mountain bikes to a great nearby
trail system around Cranberry Lake. These trails were perfect for Alisha
because they were intermediate level with some challenges that were mostly
doable and they were some sweet singletrack in the dense Washington forest.
We woke up on the 30th and headed to the ferry
terminal in Anacortes to catch the 9 am ferry to San Juan island with our
bikes. On the ferry, we met two very nice cyclists from Seattle who were very
familiar with cycling in the San Juan islands and helped us to chart out a good
course for the day. An hour later, the ferry pulled into Friday Harbor and we
were off on our bike island adventure. The island is very bike friendly with
light traffic and lots of cyclists so it was a great place to explore. Our
route took us clockwise around the island. We climbed through some hills and
road along the edge of the island to Lime Kiln State Park where we saw some
dolphins in the ocean and had a snack. The next leg took us up past English Bay
to Roche Harbor on the other end of the island and we had lunch out on the
pier. Finally, we traveled back along a different route to Friday Harbor just
in time to catch the afternoon ferry back to Anacortes.
On July 1st, we headed into Canada on the
Canadian holiday Canada Day which is like the 4th of July in the
USA. Before leaving Washington behind, we did one more mountain bike ride
around Cranberry Lake because it was such a great mountain bike trail system.
We drove to Vancouver to our hotel in the suburb Burnaby which is to the east
of town. After checking in, we caught the skytrain (light rail) to downtown.
Canadians have a lot of national pride and the downtown was bustling with
people wearing all sorts of red gear. All the Canadians were complaining about
how incredibly hot it was. In actuality, it was in the low 80s and felt pretty
good by Tucson standards. We walked down to the boardwalk along the harbor and
found some dinner in a café next to a grocery store. After a bit more strolling
around town, we finally found some seats on the grass in Vancouver’s waterfront
park to hang out and watch the fireworks later that evening. It doesn’t get
dark until 10:30 in Vancouver in the summer so we had a while to wait. It was
an impressive fireworks show with tons of fireworks being shot off from a barge
over the harbor right in front of the downtown waterfront. In total, there must
have been several hundred thousand people in the Vancouver area watching the
show. Afterwards, we made our way through huge crowds of people back to the
skytrain. Amazingly, they had trains running continually to transport people
out of the city and we didn’t have to wait too long. We eventually made it back
to our hotel for the latest night by far of our trip around 1:00 am.
We slept in pretty late on the 2nd after our big
Canada Day evening the night before. However, in the late morning we put on our
bike gear and rode our bikes into Vancouver which was about 15 miles from our
hotel. The waterfront in the city area includes a bike path that goes on and on
for miles. First, we headed around the bay to the south towards Grey’s Point.
The bike path was awesome with a lot to see and beautiful views of the water
and city along the way. We ate lunch at a bakery along the way and then turned
around and headed back along the path to the north. We did a loop around
Granville Island along the way and had a rest on the grass at a quiet park
there. In the northwest corner of town, the path led us into Stanley Park which
is a giant forested park with tons of trails. We took some dirt trails through
the park and then did the directional perimeter trail back around the outside.
We stopped for some gelato and then made things interesting by selecting a
different way to go home through Gastown, the northern waterfront, the Canada
Trail, and the Burnaby Heights trail. We arrived back at the hotel around 9 pm
after an extensive day of biking. The paths around Vancouver are the best urban
bike paths that we have ever done and we had a great time.
On the 3rd, it was time to head across the river
to Vancouver’s famous north shore. We started with a trip to Grouse Mountain up
the infamous Grouse Grind trail. It’s only 2 miles long but it is the steepest 2
miles that you will find anywhere with rocks, roots, logs, and stairs that go
right up the side of the mountain. The resort offers timing chips, there is a
big race there every year, and many of the locals like to blitz up it as fast
as possible. I did my best to keep Alisha in check and it took us about an hour
to make it up to the resort at the top. The steepness of this hike means that
it is an uphill only hike and we took the gondola back down. However, we first
had some lunch outside at the resort where we could overlook all of Vancouver.
We also took a walk around on top of the mountain and saw some giant wood
carvings, the grizzly bear habitat with two bears, and a bird show that was
just starting with a bald eagle and some other hawks and owls. Alisha also got
her very first souvenir of the entire trip which was a Grouse Grind t-shirt.
Next, it was time to try out some north shore mountain biking. However, the
north shore is in a league of its own when it comes to the trails with their “intermediate”
trails riding like expert trails everywhere else. We hit the bridal path trail
which is complete with boardwalks (some are super skinny), log rides, drops,
and of course tons of gnarly roots. We were pretty cooked already from a couple
big days of adventures but Alisha gave it a good go and we had a good time. To
give you an idea of the difficulty of these trails, we got passed by trail
runners who were able to do most of the technical stuff faster than we were.
For the Fourth of July, we started the day with some paddle
boarding in Deep Cove on Vancouver’s north shore. Alisha has been wanting to
try this for a long time and it turns out to be a watersport that I also like
because you get to stand up on the board like a gondolier with a paddle and you
don’t get wet or cold. We had a good time cruising around the bay and had some
pizza for lunch before leaving Vancouver behind and traveling up Canada’s
Highway 99 which is the Sea to Sky Highway en route to Whistler. Our big adventure
of the day was hiking “The Chief” in the Squamish area. The Chief is like
another version of the Grouse Grind meaning that it is straight up with rocks,
roots, stairs, granite cliffs, and even some chains and ladders. However, the
reward is getting to stand on a massive granite top with 360 degree views of
Horseshoe Bay on one side and the mountains towards Whistler on the other side.
As usual, we found that the trip down actually felt more challenging on our
legs than the hike up. We rolled into Whistler in the early evening and stopped
by the visitor information center to get some info on the mountain biking in
the area before arriving in our campground out of town to the north at Nairn
Falls.
On the 5th, we headed into Whistler ready for
some mountain biking. We talked to a guy at the shop in Lost Lake who recommended
some trails in the area and we went out on some of the classic Whistler Valley
trails in the area with some great swooping and dropping boardwalks on the
singletrack. In one spot, I got to ride a long skinny plank for longer than I’ve
ever done before. We returned to the shop for some more advice and he sent us
out on a longer afternoon ride on the Flank trail. This trail had a bit of
everything: some brutal climbs and painful hike-a-bikes, some sweet flowing
singletrack, some amazing views of the valley and mountains, some white knuckle
descents, some wood plank bridges over raging creeks, and even some swarms of
mosquitoes in the deep woods. We were exhausted by the time we were done and
also really smelly. Fortunately, a lake near town had a nice beach, swimming
area, and outdoor shower where I smelled bad enough that I was willing to brave
some cold water in order to get clean. We returned to our campsite to make some
spaghetti feeling more tired in our legs after our last few days of adventure
than perhaps at any point so far in the trip.
With tons of strenuous hikes and bikes in the last few days
and more to come, we took things a bit easier on the 6th to try to
get some life back in our legs. After a short hike to Nairn Falls near our
campground, we headed into town where we saw the finish of the BC Bike Race in
the Olympic Plaza. We did Whistler’s beautiful and car-free village stroll up
to the top of town. This weekend there is a longboard festival and world cup
race in town and we checked out a skateboard show on the plaza and then went up
to the longboard track where we watched the quarter and semi-finals as the
competitors raced down paved switchbacks in tight groups at high speeds. All
the campgrounds were full for Saturday night, however we were able to find a
room at the HI Hostel which was built as athlete housing for the Olympics. We
finally got a much needed shower and an opportunity to lie down and rest for a
few hours.
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