Whistler’s high mountain peaks and fantastic trails made it
one of our favorite destinations and one of my favorite ski resort towns.
However, it was finally time to leave on the 9th and we spent a long
day in the car driving down through Vancouver, Seattle, and then across North
Cascades National Park and over to Cour de Alene Idaho. The North Cascades did
have some good views, but to be honest I think the mountains in Whistler were
actually much prettier to look at than those in the National Park. I told
Alisha that we had seen so many amazing mountains and views on the trip that we
had gotten spoiled.
We spent the 10th in Cour de Alene and started
the day off with a hike near the campground up Mineral Ridge to get a great
view of the lake. Next, we headed into town where we got some lunch and rented
paddle boards. We also did a bit of swimming. We were feeling lazy in the
afternoon and laid in the park for a while. In the evening, we went to the
movies for a rare taste of the civilized world.
We left Cour de Alene on the 11th for some more
driving. However, our main adventure of the day was riding the Hiawatha Trail
about 30 miles east of town. This is a famous rails-to-trails section where
long dark tunnels and high rising tressels have been converted into a bike
path. The longest tunnel was the Taft Tunnel and at 1.7 miles long, it feels
like you are riding through a cold mine shaft with no light on the other side
and it’s quite an experience. The route was 30 miles and very scenic but
completely nontechnical and the opposite of our recent Whistler riding. We
continued driving and got some pizza in Missoula and a hotel in Butte which
still looks a lot like an old mining town.
We drove into Yellowstone on the 12th and quickly
realized what a busy park it is in mid-July. Despite getting there early, many
of the campgrounds were already full and we got the second to last spot in
Indian Springs which was considerably north of where we had originally planned
to stay. Our northern proximity made the afternoon well suited for a trip up to
Mammoth Hot Springs near the north end of the park. There are many springs and
red and white terraces which are pretty although not quite as exciting as the
geysers farther south. We got some ice cream and went to the very old and not
updated visitors center in the area as well.
On the 13th, we drove south to Old Faithful and
the main geyser basins of Yellowstone. We arrived just before Old Faithful went
off. After checking out a much better visitor’s center than the previous day,
we went on a hike around the geyser basin that we timed to catch some of the
geysers along the way. We saw Daisy and Riverside as expected, and then as an
added bonus saw Castle and Lion. This section of the park is so unique and is
like nothing else in the world (and was why Yellowstone was my favorite
national park as a kid). We hit the other geyser basins in the afternoon to see
huge springs colored by heat and algae, boiling mudpots, and steaming
fumeroles.
We spent the 14th touring the north and east
sides of Yellowstone. Right as we were leaving the campground there was a huge
male bison standing next to the roadway. Near Tower Falls, we pulled over to
see a petrified tree trunk and wound up with the bonus of getting to see a
black bear eating roots in the valley below. After a brief stop at Tower Falls,
we hiked up Mt. Washburn. The trail follows an old road and so it is pretty
wide but there were some nice wildflowers and mountain goats along the way and
some good 360 degree views from the top. After having some lunch in Canyon
Village, we went out to Artists Point to see the Grand Canyon of Yellowstone
which has some very unique yellow and orange sides. We hiked a bunch of stairs
down Uncle Tom’s trail to get down into the canyon for views of the lower falls.
We went to Norris Geyser Basin on the way back which was nice because it was
late in the day and few people were out on the boardwalks. Norris is the
hottest of the geyser basins but lacks the regular geysers of other areas in
the park.
On the 15th, we took the long way out of
Yellowstone by heading over to the east side of the park near Yellowstone Lake.
On the way we stopped to see a grizzly bear alongside the road. After seeing
the grizzly, we encountered a traffic jam as we encountered a huge bison herd
crossing the road. I joked to Alisha that you could predict the wildlife by the
level of traffic jam that it caused. Elk would be a 10 car jam, bison a 25 car
jam, and a grizzly a 100 car jam. At the lake, we toured the geyser basin in
the area. It had a lot of nice pools including one called Fishing Cone in which
fishermen used to be able to catch a fish from the lake and then dip the fish
in the cone to cook in the hot water. In the afternoon we made our way south
into Grand Teton National Park. We found a campsite at Coulter Bay, went on a
little walk near the bay, and got some advice from a ranger about doing a big
hike the next day.
On the 16th, we were ready for our biggest hike
of the trip. We took the shuttle boat across Jenny Lake and started up Cascade
Canyon. The glacially carved canyon was gorgeous with tall peaks on all sides
and a stream down the middle. We saw a bear near the start of the hike and
later a moose eating down by the water. As we got closer to Lake Solitude, the
canyon became steeper. We went across numerous boulder fields where lots of
marmots lived in the rocks. We stopped at Lake Solitude for lunch which is a
beautiful glacial lake that is surrounded by tall cliffs and makes for an amazing
panorama. The initial plan was just to turn around here, however we realized
from looking at the map that we could take a trail that climbed over the spine
of the mountain which eventually looped back to where we started. The climb up
the Paintbrush Divide was steep and rocky but the views were incredible. We
crossed over the spine of the mountain and across numerous snow banks. The sky
was gray all day which offered pleasant temperatures and we got rained on
briefly a couple of times. We came down Paintbrush Canyon past other lakes and
ultimately looped around past String Lake back to Jenny Lake. The trip was just
over 20 miles and we were tired by the end but it was an epic hike.
It rained in the night and on the 17th we weren’t
sure what sort of adventure we would be able to do because the weather looked
like it might turn nasty. We packed up and drove south to Jackson Hole and as
we traveled the clouds lifted and soon it was sunny and we were thinking that
it might even be a bit too hot. We went out on an amazing mountain bike loop in
Jackson Hole that goes up Cache Creek and drops down Game Creek. The ascent was
moderate and when the downhill started it just kept going and going. We flowed
through fields of wildflowers on tight singletrack and alongside a river where
we saw a moose. The final five miles were on the paved path that runs through
the city and which took us back to the start. It was hot when we returned and
we wanted to float the river but couldn’t find a good way to get shuttled
upstream or to rent tubes. Instead, we settled for a swim in the river and
dinner at an interesting restaurant called the Lotus Café. We camped just south
of Jackson in a national forest campground on the Snake River.
With the adventures behind us, we drove to Logan on the 18th to see family. We spent a fun day with Alisha’s sister Mandy, her husband Shane, and their two little ones Brody and Elsie. Kids nowdays love to play on tablets and I taught Brody how to play chess and downloaded him a chess app which he was really interested in (and I was impressed because he is only 5). On the 19th, we drove into SLC and met up with both Alisha’s family and my family who happened to be in the area at the same time. In the evening, we went to see a cool concert in the Conference Center. On the 20th, we did a run near the hotel around Wheeler Farm with Alisha’s sister Amber and her husband Devin who have gotten really fit and are into running. After breakfast, the whole family headed over to the Wheeler Farm area for some family pictures which is always an exciting ordeal with lots of young and hyper kids. After the pictures, the kids got to have some fun as Wheeler Farm has a lot of animals for kids to check out. The best was that the kids all got to feed the ducks and geese who came up really close for their food. In the evening, we drove down to Cedar City. We had dinner with my family including my grandparents who were attending the Shakespearian Festival in the area. Finally, 9 hours of driving on the 21st and our road trip was over. However, the trip was the vacation of a lifetime and quite an adventure. Near the end, we compiled a few statistics about our big adventure.
Miles driven: 6,100
States visited: 10
National Parks visited: 9
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